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| The iconic Hollywood sign. |
Getting There
I'll start with the bad news: getting from Atlanta to Los Angeles is not always affordable. I search for months in advance in hopes of finding the most affordable options (so far that's been on American, believe it or not). The other thing to know is that Los Angeles is not exactly the most economical destination once you arrive - so save your pennies! Finally, to make getting around the city more manageable, you'll need to consider one or all of the following combinations: 1) frequent use of ride sharing apps (I prefer Lyft); 2) a local friend with a car (like my always-willing travelmate, Le Professeur M); and 3) a rental car of your very own (I've found Silvercar - they only rent silver Audis - to be both affordable and reliable).
Where to Stay
Let me be honest: a quality hotel room in a prime location in Los Angeles will cost money. I've had a great deal of success searching for deals on sites like Travelzoo or, in some cases, snagging "grand opening" deals at new properties. Here are a few suggestions - at each of these unique hotels I was able to secure a room for less than the average by engaging in some internet sleuthing.
The Standard Hollywood
8300 Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90069
Hollywood. Sunset Boulevard. Mid-century Modern. Great Pool. Awesome Diner. What more could you possibly need? Swings in the lobby. Astroturf and teepees on the patio. A beanbag in the room. Check, check, and check. The Standard Hollywood is both funky and comfortable - an appealing combination.
The Line LA - Koreatown
3515 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90010
The Line - in a renovated mid-rise between Hollywood and Downtown - is chic and industrial. The rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows with expansive views of the Hollywood Hills and contemporary furnishings and decor that are both stylish and accommodating.
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| Star Wars mask in Mama Shelter. |
Mama Shelter - West Hollywood
6500 Selma Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90028
Mama Shelter really is in the middle of things - a quick trek to the Hollywood Walk of Fame and the Chinese Theater. And Mama Shelter is always lively - a crowded bar and popular restaurant in the lobby and a really buzzy rooftop bar with great views of the surroundings. The rooms are quirky and fun - mine, for example, was kitted out with Star Wars paraphernalia!
Best Western Plus Hollywood Hills
6141 Franklin Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90028
This hotel is vintage Hollywood! The older main building houses refurbished rooms along with a great diner and a moody, vibey bar offering classic cocktails. The (slightly) more modern back building offers similar accommodations arranged around a cute and cool pool.
The Beverly Garland Hotel - North Hollywood
4222 Vineland Avenue
North Hollywood, CA 91602
Another vintage find, the Beverly Garland was the brainchild of the actress of the same name (whose glorious portrait hangs above the fireplace in the lobby). The Garland is a mid-century dream with an awesome pool, a great lobby bar, and a wonderful restaurant.
What to Do
I'm foregoing the most obvious things that tourists do in Los Angeles and focusing instead on things that might not leap to the top of the travel sites' lists. (This list also says a lot about my own preferences as a traveler - art, gardens, and views.)
Karaoke in Koreatown
Karaoke spots abound in and around Koreatown. Find a spot that offers private rooms, smuggle in your own snacks and drink, and settle in for an hour or two of nonsense. Feel Karaoke on Harvard Boulevard has a great, cash-only BYOB deal.
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| The Getty Villa |
The Getty Museum is a marvel. Set high on a hilltop (you must take an incline train to access the museum from the parking garage), the Getty offers incredible art, beautiful gardens, and a fantastic restaurant in setting overlooking the Pacific. The Villa, a few miles away along the Pacific Coast Highway, provides more incredible views in a wonderfully divine setting.
Drive the Pacific Coast Highway
Just do it! Gas up the rental car and set out to Santa Monica and Malibu and beyond. Stop along the way to walk along the beach or to eat some seafood or to watch the sunset. Marvel at the Pacific to your left and mountains to your right. Relax, open your eyes, open your spirit, and just take it all in.
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| With Le Professeur M in the mirrored infinity room at the Broad. |
The Broad, specializing in contemporary art, is the newest museum in Los Angeles. Housed in a clever building that some have compared to a cheese grater, the Broad features Yayoi Kusama's trippy mirrored infinity room along with works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Cy Twombly, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Jeff Koons...the list goes on and on!
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| With Le Professeur M in the Chinese Garden at the Huntington. |
This is a day-long marvel that will require a drive through Pasadena and into picturesque San Marino. The campus is huge and includes everything listed above - a library, a museum, and an expansive botanical garden arranged by different climates and styles from around the world. The library features Shakespeare's First Folio, a Gutenberg Bible, and an original copy of The Canterbury Tales, just to name a few. And the museum houses Gainsborough's Blue Boy along with works by Mary Cassatt and Edward Hopper.
Where to Eat
First of all, you're required to go to In-and-Out and get your Double-Double Animal Style. Then settle in to more refined dining experiences and try out a few of these spots that are sure to satisfy.
Sqirl
For an on-trend, health-conscious breakfast (or lunch), head to Sqirl - and be prepared to queue! Once in line, you'll have time to ponder the menu. You'll probably want to try the "Famed Ricotta Toast" - housemade ricotta and jam piled on a thick, burnt slice of brioche. The Sweet Potato Hash and the Daily Frittata are both satisfying options - and you can wash it all down with a tasty Turmeric Tonic.
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| Zucchini Night at Maude |
Celebrity chef Curtis Stone is the mastermind behind these two successful (and decidedly different) restaurants.
Maude, in tony Beverly Hills, is the more formal of the two, though the formality is downplayed with vintage china in grandmotherly patterns and mismatched silverware. At Maude, Stone builds a tenish-course menu around a central theme (I was there for "Zucchini Month"; the current offering is "Central Coast Cuisine"). The food is elegantly arranged and presented and the tiny dining room (only 24 seats) is beautiful and warm.
Gwen, on bustling Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood, focuses on meat - lambs, steaks, pork chops. The affordable "pre-theater" option gets you salad or pasta, a choice of meat, potatoes, green beans, and dessert. The ten-course feast (which must be pre-booked and pre-paid) gets you a bit of everything, including tartare and caviar. or you could stop by at lunch and spend around $20 for a tasty sandwich, chips, and drink. And keep an eye out for Mr. Stone - he's frequently in this kitchen!
Osteria Mozza
Nancy Silverton's legendary Italian restaurant on Melrose Avenue is a must-stop. And the plates are hearty and big, just right for sharing with a friend or three! Recently, Le Professeur M and I over-indulged with burrata and bacon, a summer squash salad, oxtail ragu, polenta, and broccolini. Another option would be to belly up to the beautiful bar and order the three-course bar dinner - a cheese, a main, and a dessert for only $35!
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| Coconut Waffle at HLAY. |
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| Brunch cocktails at HLAY. |
My favorite restaurant in Los Angeles is Here's Looking at You in Koreatown, where the owner and chef team of Lien Ta and Jonathan Whitener are turning out stupendously delicious progressive SoCal food. If you're there for dinner, start with the much-lauded tomato salad, consider the Brussels sprouts, and don't miss the Carolina gold rice with crispy chicken skins! For brunch, don't hesitate to order the one of the best things I've ever eaten - the double cheeseburger (available only at the bar during regular dinner service) and leave a little room for coconut waffle - crunchy and airy and covered with sweet-and-tart blueberries and cream and maple syrup. And regardless of when you go to HLAY, you must try a cocktail or three; the creative libations designed by Allan Katz and Danielle Crouch will be the perfect companions to your meal!
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